Cat Grooming Guide

Cat CareBy Mustafa BilgicUpdated June 14, 2026~9 min read

Cats are famously self-cleaning, so it’s easy to assume they need no help. But regular grooming does what a cat’s tongue can’t: it removes loose fur before it becomes hairballs, prevents painful mats, spreads healthy skin oils, and gives you a weekly chance to spot lumps, fleas or skin problems early. This guide covers brushing by coat type, dealing with mats, managing shedding and the rare times a bath is needed — all using the calm, low-stress approach the ASPCA recommends.

Grooming also goes far better when a cat is comfortable being handled. The same patient, reward-based methods we use in training a cat turn grooming from a wrestling match into a routine your cat tolerates — more on that below.

Brushing by coat type

How often and how you brush depends on your cat’s coat. Matching the tool and frequency to the coat is the single biggest factor in success:

How often to brush by coat type Short hair1–2× per week Medium hair2–3× per week Long hairdaily brushing
Long coats mat fast and need daily attention; short coats need far less, but every cat benefits from a regular session.
  • Short-haired cats: a once- or twice-weekly pass with a rubber curry or soft slicker lifts loose fur. Quick and usually well tolerated.
  • Medium-haired cats: two to three times a week with a slicker brush plus a comb to catch tangles around the ruff and britches.
  • Long-haired cats (Persians, Maine Coons, Ragdolls): daily brushing is realistic, not optional — long coats mat within days, especially behind the ears, under the legs and on the belly.

Work in the direction of hair growth, keep sessions short and pleasant, and reward calm behavior. End before your cat gets fed up so the next session starts on a good note.

Dealing with mats

A mat is a tight tangle of dead and live hair that pulls on the skin and can hide irritation or sores underneath. Tackle them early and gently:

  1. Catch them smallLoose, early mats can be teased apart with your fingers and a wide-tooth comb. Hold the fur at the base so you don’t tug the skin.
  2. Work from the edges inPick at the outer edge of the mat, loosening a little at a time rather than yanking the whole clump.
  3. Never use scissorsCat skin is thin and easily pulled up into a mat — many emergency vet visits come from a snipped mat. Use a comb, not a blade.
  4. Know when to stopFor tight, large or close-to-skin mats, let a professional groomer or your veterinarian shave them safely.
Mats can hide problemsA cat that suddenly mats badly may be too sore, overweight or arthritic to groom itself. The Cornell Feline Health Center notes that a neglected coat can be a sign of an underlying health issue — mention sudden coat changes to your vet.

Managing shedding

All cats shed, and most have heavier seasonal “blowouts” in spring and fall. You can’t stop shedding, but you can capture the fur before it coats your home — and reduce the hairballs that come from a cat swallowing loose hair while self-grooming. Frequent brushing with a deshedding tool during peak seasons is the most effective approach, supported by good nutrition and hydration.

Watch the patternNormal shedding is even all over. Patchy bald spots, broken hairs, or a sudden surge in shedding can signal allergies, parasites, stress or illness — worth a vet visit rather than just more brushing.

Bathing (only when needed)

Most cats never need a bath; their own grooming keeps them clean. Bathe only for a real reason — a greasy or soiled coat, a sticky substance, or a medical shampoo your vet prescribes. When you do: use lukewarm water, a cat-specific shampoo (never human or dog products), keep water out of the ears and eyes, and rinse thoroughly. Go slowly and reward calm behavior throughout.

Because handling tolerance is everything for both bathing and brushing, it pays to build it deliberately. Our dedicated guide on how to train a cat to tolerate grooming walks through desensitizing your cat step by step, and the reward principles in our cat training tips and clicker training guides apply directly. You can track grooming sessions in our free tracker.

Eyes, ears, teeth and a health check

Full grooming is more than the coat. A weekly session is the perfect moment to glance over the parts of your cat that quietly signal health problems. Check the eyes for redness or excess discharge, peek inside the ears for dark waxy buildup or a strong odor that can point to mites or infection, and notice the breath and gums — persistent bad breath or red gum lines often mean dental disease, one of the most common and under-treated issues in cats. Run your hands over the whole body as you brush, feeling for lumps, scabs, fleas or sore spots. Catching these early, the ASPCA notes, makes treatment simpler and cheaper than waiting until a problem is obvious.

Clean only what clearly needs it, and gently. Wipe away eye discharge with a damp cotton pad, and clean only the visible part of the ear with a vet-approved solution — never push anything into the ear canal. If you spot something that doesn’t look right, photograph it and mention it at your next vet visit rather than treating it yourself.

Building a grooming routine your cat accepts

The cats that tolerate grooming best are the ones who learned, early and gently, that it predicts good things. You can teach that at any age. Start with sessions so short they barely register — a few strokes of the brush, a treat, done — and gradually lengthen them as your cat stays relaxed. Pick consistent, calm times rather than chasing a cat that’s mid-zoomies, and stop the instant your cat tenses or tries to leave, so the experience never tips into a fight. Over weeks, this turns grooming into a predictable, low-drama part of life.

This is also where training and grooming overlap directly. The desensitization steps in our guide on training a cat to tolerate grooming apply to brushing, bathing and nail care alike, and the marker-and-reward timing from clicker training makes each session clearer to your cat. If you ever feel out of your depth — a badly matted coat, an anxious or aggressive cat, or a senior who can no longer self-groom — a professional groomer or your veterinarian can handle it safely without turning grooming into a source of fear.

Portrait of Mustafa Bilgic
Mustafa Bilgic
Editor · TrainACat.us
This guide reflects ASPCA grooming guidance and Cornell Feline Health Center coat-and-skin advice. It’s educational and not a substitute for advice from your own veterinarian or a professional groomer.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I brush my cat?

Short-haired cats usually do well with a brush once or twice a week, while long-haired cats often need daily brushing to prevent mats. Brush more during seasonal shedding to remove loose fur and reduce hairballs.

How do I get a mat out of my cat’s fur?

Work small, loose mats gently with your fingers and a wide-tooth comb, holding the fur at the base so you don’t pull the skin. Never cut a mat with scissors — cat skin is thin and easily nicked. For tight or large mats, see a groomer or veterinarian.

Do cats need baths?

Most cats groom themselves well and rarely need a bath. Bathe only when truly necessary — a greasy, soiled coat or a medical reason — using a cat-specific shampoo and lukewarm water.

How can I reduce my cat’s shedding?

Regular brushing is the most effective tool, removing loose fur before it lands on your furniture. A balanced diet, good hydration and routine deshedding during heavy-shed seasons all help. Sudden excessive shedding or bald patches warrant a veterinary check.

Sources

  • ASPCA — General cat care & grooming
  • Cornell Feline Health Center — Skin & coat health
  • American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) — Pet care resources

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